Sunday, 2015-08-16

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CyanoticAxolotlwhat is the max current that the 3.3V pin will put out?00:28
CyanoticAxolotlbecause i made a mistake and my LED 7-seg display didn't blow00:28
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warthog9CyanoticAxolotl: it's not much, 500mA i think04:18
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frogFeetHey all. I'm looking for some help with a broken minnowboard max.07:18
frogFeetI was attaching a sata drive to minnowboard and drawing power from the low speed header.07:19
frogFeetwhile the board was powered the 5v and gnd pin connected.07:19
frogFeetthe board turned off and now won't power on (the power light indicator is lit but not the second led).07:20
frogFeetIs there any chance of salvaging the board?07:20
frogFeetthank you.07:20
tbrtime to get the schematic and trace where that 5V rail comes from07:20
tbrthat's a likely candidate for the to be replaced part07:21
tbralso depending on your luck you'll either need a smd soldering iron or a hot air station07:22
frogFeetPerhaps the maker space near me (Melbourne) has those.07:24
frogFeetthanks tbr. i know nothing about hardware/electronics really so it'll be a bit of a journey getting this board back to life.07:25
frogFeetSo a part of the board will need to be replaced. Is it likely (or possible) that the whole board is fried/beyond repair?07:25
tbrfirst step is to obtain the schematics.07:26
tbrthen follow the net label around that is attached to that 5V pin you used07:26
tbrhttp://wiki.minnowboard.org/MinnowBoard_MAX#Board_Design_Files07:28
frogFeetthanks for that tbr. I think I'll need to come back to it in a month when I understand it.07:31
tbrI'd look at U1107:34
tbrif you shorted pin 3 to ground07:36
tbralso page 28 nicely outlines power rails07:40
tbrif you are less lucky you fried a trace somewhere. you might want to look on the pcb if in any place something is visibly fried07:41
tbrboth components and copper traces (under the blue layer)07:43
frogFeetI can see U11 on the schematic but I can see it on the board. I don't understand the relationship between the schematic and the board. I can't see anything visibly fried though.07:43
frogFeetThanks very much for the pointers tbr07:44
frogFeetI'll get a book on electronics and let you know how it goes.07:44
tbrU11 is directly next to the power connector on the top side07:45
tbrthe switch is rated for 11A, so sadly it's more likely you fried something between that and the pin. question is what.07:46
frogFeetcan i figure that out with consumer equiptment like a multimeter?07:47
tbryes07:47
tbryou could ask for help on the mailing list. Might get you some hints.07:48
tbrwhen you do, mention which pins exactly were shorted07:48
frogFeetI'll definitely do that. Once I'm somewhat versed on the basics.07:49
tbras right now I just guessed that you shorted pin 3 to ground on the pin header07:49
frogFeetYep 1 and 3. So if I am understanding this correctly, because U11 is rated for 11 amps nothing beyond that could have been fried, which means I should be able to replace whatever (cheap) part was fried before that.07:51
tbrthere is nothing between that and the power connector07:52
tbrso it's likely that the maximum current your PSU was able to deliver through the circuits went all the way and fried something in its path07:53
tbrbut that's just guessing07:53
frogFeetah so it could have been anything. including something i can't replace, like the cpu?07:53
tbrthe cpu is not in the path07:53
tbrbut it might have blown something on a power plane or such. if lucky then that might be fixable with some external wire.07:54
tbrgiven that it doesn't turn on, I'd say something close to U1107:55
tbreither a part (I don't see any) or a trace/via/plane07:55
frogFeetokay. i'll do some investigation. hope i can fix it one day soon. cheers tbr.07:58
tbryw07:58
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CyanoticAxolotlah so the 5V has got a current limit too?12:11
CyanoticAxolotlor is it directly connected to the PSU?12:11
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